BACK TO SECTION 2
BACK TO TRAILERS
||The difficulty of parking a trailer
near a locksmith's being what it is, you may prefer to deal with missing
keys or an impossibly jammed lock at home. If you can't get in, it will
be necessary to drill out the rivets. The only problem is that it is better
not to enlarge the holes in the sheet metal. The choices are to use a drill
(preferably) a little less than 1/8", or a slightly larger
one and stop drilling the moment the head comes off. Then punch the remaining
portion out. Of course, the smaller the bit, the more apt it is to break,
especially the ones made in China. Hanson used to make alloy bits that
were pretty tough, I don't know if they still do.
||It's fairly straightforward. There will be either
a nut, (1) or a clip fastening the lock to the panel. Better to take the
old one along. Especially if you want them all keyed the same, a locksmith's
is the best place to get them. In the case at right, the closest match
had a cam, tab, whatever you want to call it, ("3" which rotates down to
block the movement of "4") which was too long, and had to be ground shorter.
Remember the old adage - "You can cut it shorter, but you can't cut it
longer again". The black line leaves it a little too long, progressively
smaller cuts size it exactly.
||A dial caliper can be had for $20 or so, not
the quality for anything really technical, but useful for any number of
things like this. This can reduce the time spent trial fitting, but even
then, the final stages of fitting should be done in place.There is some
play in the barrel, and as time passes everything will wear even looser,
so a good, tight fit is desirable. Too tight might break the key. Too loose,
and enough slack may develop to let the door work open on the road. This
is another reason to do it yourself. Others are not usually too concerned
with that kind of detail.
||right - Enlargement of "2". There will
be at least two slightly different versions of the piece on the end in
the bag of parts. These determine how far the key (and internal parts)
can rotate. They also have a part in positioning the keyway, (5) vertical,
horizontal, upside down, depending on where the one you choose is positioned
on the rotating square protrusion.
||"5" is the opposite end of the same part shown
above, right. "6" denotes one of the four slots that receive plastic inserts
included in the package. Which of the slots inserts are placed in will
determine the position(s) where the key can be removed. I want the doors
locked any time the key is removed, so I use both inserts, at 180 degrees
apart. This makes it impossible for the key to come out except
in the locked position, provided they are positioned correctly. A little
trial and error may be involved on that point.
||When tightening the nut that fastens the lock
to the panel, be sure to hold the body of the lock with one wrench while
tightening the nut with another. Otherwise the lock will rotate, and the
flat sides of the body may round out the hole in the sheet metal.
||It might be tempting to use this engaging tab
as a template for the other(s), but there may be significant differences
in fit between one door and another, so do that with suitable caution.
Speaking of caution, it will certainly occur to you that a little grease
inside the lock, on all contacting surfaces at right, and in the latch
itself will make everything work much better. Women can be really unpleasant
about that unless the excess is removed in detail.
||Same thing as above, when tightening the screw
that holds it all together. Some locks fit into places that cannot be accessed
with a screwdriver, and a little bolt must be used instead.
BACK TO SECTION 2
BACK TO TRAILERS